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Four Critics At 98 To 100 Points.
$70 to $40 Below Everyone Else.
Ornellaia 2023
Jane Anson gave it 100. Wine Advocate, James Suckling and The Wine Palate gave it 98. Every wooden case of six carries one bottle with Marina Abramović’s “La Vitalità” label, the one on the left above. The importer’s suggested retail is $329.00. Flatiron in San Francisco lists it at $320.00, K&L at $289.99, Eataly at $288.00. Ours is $249.99, and behind it sit the second wine, the Bianco, Le Volte and the last bottles of the 2022, 2021 and 2020.
• Library: 27 Of The 2022 · 2 Of The 2021 · 7 Of The 2020
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A Personal Note
Dear Artisans,
Ornellaia 2023 arrived this spring, and the critics have been unusually unanimous. Jane Anson gave it 100 points, and Wine Advocate, James Suckling and The Wine Palate each gave it 98. Jeb Dunnuck is at 97, Vinous and Decanter at 96. Seven reviews, and not one below 96. Larner calls it “a meticulously made Ornellaia that captures the vintage with remarkable elegance.”
We do not usually print other shops’ prices. This time I will, because the gap is the point. The importer’s suggested retail is $329.00. Flatiron in San Francisco lists the 2023 at $320.00. K&L lists it at $289.99. Eataly at $288.00. Ours is $249.99, about ten percent under the national average, with the same wooden case and the same artist bottle inside it.
The 2023 Vintage In Bolgheri
The estate calls 2023 a challenging vintage that “benefitted from Nature’s benevolence during key moments of the growing season”: a wet spring that filled the water table, a hot summer without extremes, then “rainfall in late August and cool September nights” that built aromatics and kept the acidity. Monica Larner calls it “what was ultimately a very strong vintage.” James Suckling’s team, tasting the whole appellation, called 2023 “a classic vintage” for Bolgheri, whose wines are “capable of expressing a rare Mediterranean elegance,” and put Ornellaia at 98, level with Masseto and a point behind Sassicaia.
It is also the first full vintage made under Marco Balsimelli, who came to Bolgheri from Bordeaux, and the critics describe a change of register. Suckling finds it “more balanced and less muscular than in the past.” Galloni finds an Ornellaia that “speaks to understatement and finesse more than power.” Jeb Dunnuck’s window runs to 2056, The Wine Palate’s to 2050. Not the biggest Ornellaia ever made, and on the evidence one of the most complete.
La Vitalità
Since the 2006 vintage Ornellaia has asked an artist to interpret each year for its Vendemmia d’Artista project, and since 2012 every case has carried one bottle with the artist’s label. For 2023 the estate turned to Marina Abramović, and the word was “La Vitalità.” Her label shows the artist as a contemporary Medusa, her hair replaced by vine branches bearing grapes; that is the bottle on the left of the photograph above, and there is one in every wooden case of six. The large formats she signed were auctioned in Paris in June, and Ornellaia says the edition raised three hundred thousand dollars for the Guggenheim Foundation. Buy the case and the artist bottle is yours.
The Rest Of The 2023s
Behind the flagship: Le Serre Nuove, the second wine, at $79.99 a bottle, $68.99 by the six and $58.99 by the twelve, with Wine Advocate and James Suckling both at 95. The Ornellaia Bianco, 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Bellaria vineyard, which Jane Anson scored 99 and placed “among the great Sauvignon Blancs of the world,” at $249.99. And Le Volte, the everyday Ornellaia that Jeb Dunnuck gave 93, at $29.99.
The Library
And the back vintages, which we are closing out and have switched off for reorder: twenty-seven bottles of the 2022 (Jane Anson 99, Suckling 98; $249.99 a bottle by the case), two of the 2021 (Suckling 99, Vinous 99, Wine Spectator 98) and seven of the 2020 (Suckling 98). Once these are gone, the shelf goes back to a single vintage.
James Tran
Artisan Wine & Spirits
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Why This Matters
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Four critics at 98 to 100. Jane Anson 100; Wine Advocate, James Suckling and The Wine Palate 98; nothing below 96 from seven reviews. |
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Nearly eighty dollars under suggested retail. Importer SRP $329.00. Flatiron $320.00, K&L $289.99, Eataly $288.00. Ours $249.99. |
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An artist bottle in every case. Marina Abramović’s La Vitalità label rides in each wooden six-pack of the 2023. |
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The whole estate, one email. Second wine with case pricing, the 99-point Bianco, Le Volte under thirty dollars, and the last 2022, 2021 and 2020. |
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The Wine
2023 Ornellaia.
Jane Anson 100. Wine Advocate, James Suckling and The Wine Palate 98.
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Tenuta dell’Ornellaia “Ornellaia” 2023
Bolgheri Superiore DOC · Tuscany
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100
Jane Anson
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98
Wine Advocate
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98
James Suckling
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98
The Wine Palate
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97
Jeb Dunnuck
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96
Vinous
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96
Decanter
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55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot, each variety and each block vinified apart, then about 18 months in barriques, 70% new, and a further year in bottle before release. One La Vitalità artist bottle in every case of six. The six reviews are below, in full.
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Jane Anson · Inside Bordeaux
100 Points
Moreish, confident and well judged, this is smoky yet ethereal, muscular yet light, wonderfully juicy and fragrant, with a perfectly judged blend of lightness of touch set against an unmistakable punch of damson, loganberry and red cherry fruits. Liquorice, tapenade and slate ensure the texture is slow and steady, and this is just a fabulous wine.
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Wine Advocate · Monica Larner
98 Points
…The wine shows impressive richness and concentration with a bouquet that leans botanical and complex, marked by dark fruit, Mediterranean thyme and rosemary. The nose was slightly closed when I tasted the wine, but it will open. The texture is velvety and polished, delivering beautiful richness with a sense of succulence that feels expansive on the palate.… This is a meticulously made Ornellaia that captures the vintage with remarkable elegance. February 2026
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James Suckling
98 Points
Restrained and complex, showing aromas of cloves, graphite, bark, Mediterranean scrub and dark yet fresh bramble fruit. On the full-bodied palate, it shines with extraction and suppleness, showing dense, velvety tannins and long, refreshing acidity. Stunning savoriness and intensity with fine-knit depth. Drinkable now but best from 2027.
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The Wine Palate · Lisa Perrotti-Brown
98 Points
…After a little swirling, the nose erupts with a powerful perfume of juicy blueberries, blackcurrant pastilles, and cedar, giving way to nuances of forest floor, garrigue, and dark chocolate. The full-bodied palate is taut with muscular black fruit and firm, grainy tannins, delivering a refreshing line that lifts the long, decadent finish. Impressive! Drinking Window: 2029-2050.
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Jeb Dunnuck · Audrey Frick
97 Points
…pours a deep, saturated purple/red hue and is incredibly detailed and layered. Aromas of cassis, violet, sandalwood, sage, leather, and fresh tobacco unfold with precision. Full-bodied, it is seamless and refined, with exceptional balance, creamy yet structured tannins, vibrant acidity, and a saline, mineral-driven finish. Notes of preserved black cherry and dark chocolate linger through the long, elegant close. This is a complete and compelling vintage with outstanding longevity. Drink 2026-2056. May 2026
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Vinous · Antonio Galloni
96 Points
The 2023 Ornellaia is elegant and supremely finessed right out of the gate. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, dried herbs, licorice and lavender all meld together in the glass. There are no hard edges or awkward contours. Readers will find an Ornellaia that speaks to understatement and finesse more than power. This is impressive. April 2026
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| Blend |
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, 7% Petit Verdot |
| Cellar |
About 18 months in barriques, 70% new; a further 12 months in bottle before release |
| Released |
Bottled July 2025, released March 2026 |
| Artist label |
Marina Abramović, “La Vitalità,” one bottle per six-pack |
| Drink |
2029 to 2050 (The Wine Palate) · 2026 to 2056 (Jeb Dunnuck) |
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Importer Suggested Retail $329.00
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Flatiron Wines, San Francisco $320.00
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K&L Wine Merchants $289.99
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Eataly $288.00
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| Artisan Wine & Spirits |
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$249.99 / bottle
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The Second Wine
2023 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia.
Wine Advocate 95. James Suckling 95. Case pricing applies itself at checkout.
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Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia 2023
Bolgheri DOC · Tuscany
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95
Wine Advocate
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95
James Suckling
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93
Vinous
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A true second wine, first made in 1997 from a stricter selection of the lots that go into Ornellaia. A Merlot-led blend of the estate’s four varieties, made with the same care as the flagship but mostly from the younger vineyards, then 15 months in barrels, a quarter of them new. It carries the pedigree of the flagship wine with freshness, accessibility and softness. Two 95s.
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James Suckling
95 Points
A gentle and elegant wine with aromas of spices, milk chocolate, vanilla, milk, mint, graphite and dark fruit. Silky and velvety on the palate, with ripe tannins, crisp acidity, a full body, clove flavors and amazing complexity. Drink or hold. July 2025
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Vinous · Antonio Galloni
93 Points
The 2023 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia is a delight. Crushed flowers, ripe red cherry fruit, spice, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco are all nicely laced together. This mid-weight Serre Nuove is notable for its forward fruit, mid-weight structure and overall appeal. Floral top notes extend the effortless, silky finish. February 2025
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| Blend |
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot |
| Cellar |
15 months in barrels, 25% new; 6 months in bottle before release |
| Alcohol |
14.5% |
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$79.99 / bottle
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$68.99 / bottle by the six save $66.00 on six
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$58.99 / bottle by the twelve save $252.00 on twelve
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| Applies automatically at checkout, no code needed |
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The White
2023 Ornellaia Bianco.
Jane Anson 99. Jeb Dunnuck and Decanter 95. 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Bellaria vineyard.
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Ornellaia Bianco 2023
Bolgheri Bianco DOC · Tuscany
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99
Jane Anson
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95
Jeb Dunnuck
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95
Decanter
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94
Vinous
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94
Wine Advocate
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The estate’s grand white, made since 2013 and for the first time entirely Sauvignon Blanc, from the Bellaria vineyard on limestone. Whole clusters pressed slowly, fermented in barrel with 30% new oak, no malolactic, ten months on the lees with bâtonnage, then twenty months in bottle before release. Wine Spectator counted 112 cases imported into the whole country; we have four bottles. Jane Anson’s 99 is below.
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Jane Anson
99 Points
The last year with Olga Fusari as winemaker, and a fabulous vintage to sign her out with, steel and slate, reductive gunsmoke aromatics, cradled by finely tuned tannins. Rinses the palate with grip and juice… just a fabulous wine that deserves its place among the great Sauvignon Blancs of the world.
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Jeb Dunnuck · Audrey Frick
95 Points
…sourced entirely from Sauvignon Blanc across 13 hectares, pours a medium yellow hue and leans into a more subtle and mineral-driven expression. Aromas of candle wax, fresh apricot, rosemary, and lime oil unfold with air. Medium to full-bodied, it has impressive density and clarity, with a chalky texture and a savory, Mediterranean profile that avoids overt tropicality. The structure is precise and layered, with excellent freshness and aging potential. Drink 2026-2036. May 2026
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| Grape |
100% Sauvignon Blanc, Bellaria vineyard |
| Cellar |
Barrel-fermented, 30% new; no malolactic; 10 months on the lees with bâtonnage; 20 months in bottle |
| Drink |
2026 to 2036 (Jeb Dunnuck) |
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The Everyday Ornellaia
2023 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia.
Jeb Dunnuck 93. The first step into the Ornellaia family, under thirty dollars.
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| Aged In Ornellaia Barrels |
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Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2023
Toscana IGT · Tuscany
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93
Jeb Dunnuck
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91
Decanter
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90
James Suckling
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90
Vinous
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The first step into the Ornellaia family: Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with a little more, fermented apart in small steel tanks, then ten months partly in barriques that held Ornellaia and partly in concrete. Four reviews at 90 or better, led by Jeb Dunnuck’s 93.
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Jeb Dunnuck
93 Points
…Always a wine leaning into the fruity and approachable side of things, the nose is fruity and fresh with aromas of candied flowers, crushed raspberries, red apples, and fresh stony earth. Medium to full-bodied, it’s very elegant with a joyful ease. It’s a great snapshot into these wines, which are mighty tasty now and have a lot of character. Drink 2025-2035. March 2025
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| Grapes |
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a little Petit Verdot |
| Cellar |
10 months, partly in used Ornellaia barriques, partly in concrete |
| Drink |
2025 to 2035 (Jeb Dunnuck) |
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The Library · Last Bottles
Ornellaia 2022, 2021 And 2020.
Twenty-seven of the 2022, two of the 2021, seven of the 2020. Reorders are switched off; when these go, the shelf goes back to one vintage.
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Ornellaia, The Back Vintages
Bolgheri Superiore DOC · 2020 To 2022
Three consecutive Ornellaias, three very different years, and a chance to taste the house through them. The 2022 is the case buy: at twelve bottles the automatic discount brings it to $249.99, the same price as the new 2023. The 2021 is the collector’s vintage, and we have two. The 2020 is the one to open first.
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Ornellaia 2022 · Twenty-seven Bottles Left
2022 Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore
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99
Jane Anson
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98
James Suckling
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97
Wine Advocate
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96+
Jeb Dunnuck
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96
Vinous
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96
Decanter
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95
Wine Spectator
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Jane Anson 99, James Suckling 98, Monica Larner 97. Galloni calls the 2022 “clearly among the most successful wines of the vintage” and “a reminder of how important a tool blending is.” Twenty-seven bottles, and the twelve-bottle price matches the 2023.
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James Suckling
98 Points
A Mediterranean-style wine. Stunning elegance on the nose, with vibrant dried eucalyptus leaves, flowers, restrained brambleberries and hints of black cherries, dried bananas, milk chocolate, cloves and graphite. The palate is full-bodied with elegant tannins and a touch of dust. It’s savory and well packed, with integrated, brilliant freshness and a ripe, fruity finish with a toasty aftertaste of blond tobacco. Try from 2026. February 2025
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$289.99 / bottle
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$274.99 / bottle by the three save $45.00 on three
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$269.99 / bottle by the six save $120.00 on six
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$249.99 / bottle by the twelve save $480.00 on twelve
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| Applies automatically at checkout, no code needed |
| • Only 27 Bottles Left · Once Gone, Gone |
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Ornellaia 2021 · Two Bottles Left
2021 Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore
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99
James Suckling
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99
Vinous
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98
Wine Spectator
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97
Decanter
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96
Wine Advocate
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The collector’s vintage. Suckling: “This is the best Ornellaia for the cellar in years.” Galloni, at 99 as well, calls it “pure class.” Two bottles.
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James Suckling
99 Points
Aromas of blackcurrants, iodine, crushed stone, hints of mint and sage. Blue fruits. Full-bodied with chewy tannins that open with air. It’s racy and very long. Very tannin driven and energetic with power and focus. Muscular and very toned. This is the best Ornellaia for the cellar in years. Try after 2030. November 2023
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$294.97 / bottle
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| • Only 2 Bottles Left · Once Gone, Gone |
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Ornellaia 2020 · Seven Bottles Left
2020 Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore
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98
James Suckling
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96
Wine Spectator
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96
Vinous
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96
Decanter
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96
Jeb Dunnuck
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The one to open first. Galloni calls it “a gorgeous, elegant wine” that “will drink well with minimal cellaring,” and Suckling gives it 98. Seven bottles.
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Wine Spectator · Bruce Sanderson
96 Points
Inviting aromas of blackberry, black currant, anise, cedar, vanilla and tobacco draw you in to this red, which is sleek and open on the palate. This is so well-balanced, it’s approachable now, yet there’s a bit of reserve too. The fruit flavors are prominent on the finish, along with mineral and spice notes, while the lasting impression is a salty, flinty element.… Best from 2026 through 2045. October 2023
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$299.99 / bottle
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| • Only 7 Bottles Left · Once Gone, Gone |
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The Bottom Line
A 100-point Ornellaia for $249.99, nearly eighty dollars under suggested retail.
Four critics at 98 to 100, a vintage the critics say has changed the estate’s register, and Marina Abramović’s bottle in every case. The importer suggests $329.00; Flatiron wants $320.00, K&L $289.99, Eataly $288.00. Ours is $249.99, and by the case the 2022 lands at the same number.
Take the 2023 by the six for the artist bottle, add the Serre Nuove for the table and the Bianco for the cellar, and if you want the 2021 there are two. Reply to this email or text 650-880-3553 and I will set it aside.
Cheers,
— James Tran
Artisan Wine & Spirits
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Library: 27 Of The 2022 · 2 Of The 2021 · 7 Of The 2020
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